HOUSE WINE:
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WHAT TO BUY:Lamé Delisle Boucard
Bourgueil Cuvée Vieilles Vignes |
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WHY BUY IT: Before last Friday, Lamé Delisle Boucard was not a familiar name to me, but I needed a red to go with the last of a batch of duck confit I had made, and based on an enthusiastic recommendation from my local wine shop and a respected importer's name on the back label (Neal Rosenthal), I gave it a shot. The wine was delicious, with ripe pomegranate fruit and no hint of under-ripe (not that I'm a pyrazine-hater), medium body, and silky tannins. From Rosenthal's website, I learned that it comes from forty-year-old vines grown in alluvial soils just outside the town of Bourgeuil, with a fairly short maceration and a year in large foudres. A spot-on Loire red for everyday drinking. It comes up online as ‘Domaine des Chesnaies’ – not sure why, that doesn’t seem to be on the label – but it is an entirely pleasant everyday red without too much oak or extraction or makeup of any kind.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Once again, I was shopping just up the street at Acker, not from their ‘fine and rare stocklist’ but from the rack near the cash register. It turns out that Rosenthal is getting good distribution in the States, and I could have gotten it on sale for less. Speaking of bargains, apparently, they have half bottles for €5 at Caves Bossetti in Paris if you're there (a store that also stocks an epic assortment of Chartreuse). Alliance Wine imports it in the UK; I couldn't find it at UK retail at the moment, but it must get there from time to time, since Jancis recommends it.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This pleasant, supple light red was perfect with my duck confit; it might lack a bit of grip for a steak, but really any weeknight red meat would work, or roast chicken, seared tuna, or vegetables on the grill would all be lovely.
Producer: Lamé Delisle Boucard
Reference: Lamé Delisle Boucard Bourgueil 'Cuvee Vieilles Vignes'
WHERE TO BUY IT: Once again, I was shopping just up the street at Acker, not from their ‘fine and rare stocklist’ but from the rack near the cash register. It turns out that Rosenthal is getting good distribution in the States, and I could have gotten it on sale for less. Speaking of bargains, apparently, they have half bottles for €5 at Caves Bossetti in Paris if you're there (a store that also stocks an epic assortment of Chartreuse). Alliance Wine imports it in the UK; I couldn't find it at UK retail at the moment, but it must get there from time to time, since Jancis recommends it.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This pleasant, supple light red was perfect with my duck confit; it might lack a bit of grip for a steak, but really any weeknight red meat would work, or roast chicken, seared tuna, or vegetables on the grill would all be lovely.
Producer: Lamé Delisle Boucard
Reference: Lamé Delisle Boucard Bourgueil 'Cuvee Vieilles Vignes'
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WHAT TO BUY:Gonet-Medeville
Tradition Premier Cru Brut |
WHY BUY IT: Good Champagne is a necessity of life, and I am continually searching out delicious champagne. I confess to buying top cuvées of the best vintage champagne often, but I normally send them into storage and wait 10 or 20 years before opening them. This poses the problem of what to drink right now, and I confess that in the any-Tuesday-night category I am a bit price sensitive. As I write in the spring of 2026, I am apt to pull the trigger on good champagne when it is under $40/btl. Luckily, I have found Gonet-Medeville often in this range to my delight. The house is based in Bisseuil, in the Grande Vallée, but they own twelve hectares spread over eight villages, including Le Mesnil, Oger, Ambonnay and Mareuil, Billy-le-Grand, Trepail, and Vaudemange as well as Bisseuil. The base wines are fermented in tank and cask on native yeasts; malo is avoided, and the wines receive a very low dosage. The entry-level ‘Tradition’ BSA is a superb bottle of wine at this price, and I have drunk literally cases (with my wife) when it goes on sale.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I often find this well-priced at a local shop up the street, although my local is Acker, renowned in the U.S. and in Asia as an auctioneer of rare and collectible wines, although I live blocks from their bricks-and-mortar retail shop. Gonet-Medeville is well distributed in the U.S.; I find I could have shaved a dollar a bottle off the price by buying twelve from Empire, but my most recent bottle was an impulse buy at the last minute. In the UK it is imported by Lea & Sandeman, although the price in the UK does not seem as sharp as in the U.S. It is noteworthy, however, that there are several vintage wines from this house that also bear investigating, and they produce one of the very best Coteaux Champenois on the market.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Although this wine functions as a superb aperitif, it certainly has the substance to pair with food. It would be a great match with sushi or Chinese food and a variety of seafood dishes. It could be a great foil for Indian food as well. My personal favourite, however, is this wine with my wife’s delicious cheese souffle.
Producer: Gonet-Medeville
Reference: Gonet-Medeville Tradition Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France
WHERE TO BUY IT: I often find this well-priced at a local shop up the street, although my local is Acker, renowned in the U.S. and in Asia as an auctioneer of rare and collectible wines, although I live blocks from their bricks-and-mortar retail shop. Gonet-Medeville is well distributed in the U.S.; I find I could have shaved a dollar a bottle off the price by buying twelve from Empire, but my most recent bottle was an impulse buy at the last minute. In the UK it is imported by Lea & Sandeman, although the price in the UK does not seem as sharp as in the U.S. It is noteworthy, however, that there are several vintage wines from this house that also bear investigating, and they produce one of the very best Coteaux Champenois on the market.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Although this wine functions as a superb aperitif, it certainly has the substance to pair with food. It would be a great match with sushi or Chinese food and a variety of seafood dishes. It could be a great foil for Indian food as well. My personal favourite, however, is this wine with my wife’s delicious cheese souffle.
Producer: Gonet-Medeville
Reference: Gonet-Medeville Tradition Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France
WHAT TO BUY:Clai
'Baracija' Refošk |
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WHY BUY IT: Occasionally one has the urge to change things up; perhaps switching to Croatian wine qualifies as a change of pace. At first glance, this delicious offering from natural wine producer Clai might seem bristlingly unfamiliar. Croatian wines are not very common, and only the cognoscenti will recognize the name of the grape variety Refošk. However, this is much more accessible than it initially seems. The grape variety is similar to the Refosco commonly grown throughout Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige. The variety grown in Croatia is called Refosco d'Istria or Refosco dal pedunculo verde (as opposed to pedunculo rosso). Istria, too, sounds exotic, but much of it is in Italy, around the city of Trieste. South of this is a sliver belonging to Slovenia, but the bulk of the peninsula is Croatian territory, and Clai is made here, near the Adriatic coast. The wine is certified organic and is made with minimal intervention and minimal sulfur. Despite this way of working, however, the wine has admirable purity of black and blue fruit, and the extraction is carefully done to deliver a silky, ethereal texture but enough substance and structure to stand up to food. The grapes are from the younger vines in a vineyard site called ‘Stancija Baracija,’ hence the name.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found the Refošk on the wine list at a trendy Italian restaurant in Brooklyn called Misi, run by celebrity chef Missy Robbins. The food was delightful, but we liked this wine so much that we ordered a second bottle of it. Looking over the internet it seems there is good distribution in Croatia (!) but that there is also availability in London and New York at retail. The winery also specializes in Malvazija, which may be more readily available.
HOW TO DRINK IT: The Refošk was a marvelous foil for our lunch which consisted of assorted vegetable antipasti and pasta. I could see it also with salumi, but it could work well elsewhere too—I have drunk Clai wines in Chinese restaurants with great enjoyment. The wine is also light and silky enough that it could be enjoyed on its own.
Producer: Clai
Reference: Clai 'Baracija' Refosk, Istria, Croatia
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found the Refošk on the wine list at a trendy Italian restaurant in Brooklyn called Misi, run by celebrity chef Missy Robbins. The food was delightful, but we liked this wine so much that we ordered a second bottle of it. Looking over the internet it seems there is good distribution in Croatia (!) but that there is also availability in London and New York at retail. The winery also specializes in Malvazija, which may be more readily available.
HOW TO DRINK IT: The Refošk was a marvelous foil for our lunch which consisted of assorted vegetable antipasti and pasta. I could see it also with salumi, but it could work well elsewhere too—I have drunk Clai wines in Chinese restaurants with great enjoyment. The wine is also light and silky enough that it could be enjoyed on its own.
Producer: Clai
Reference: Clai 'Baracija' Refosk, Istria, Croatia
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WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Morgon Côte du Py |
WHY BUY IT: A good Beaujolais-Villages from a quality-minded producer is a great everyday wine. The best are supple and approachable, with a voluptuous, plummy fruit and a floral edge. Wine from the ten Beaujolais 'crus' (villages that sell their wine under their own name) is often even more interesting, with greater depth of flavour, complexity, and a real ability to age. Morgon is among my favourite crus. It delivers one of the most full-bodied and dense wines in Beaujolais, offering impressive aromatic complexity. Within Morgon, it gets even more specific – there are six subdivisions called 'climats', the most well-known of which climats is Côte de Py. Jean-Marc Burgaud is a master of the Côte de Py, where he owns seven hectares. One hectare is bottled as a separate sub-climat called Javernières; the rest goes into his 'regular' Côte du Py, which is an extraordinary value. As he describes it, the decomposed blue schist gives the wine a pointed mineral edge, adorned with complex hints of mineral and spice. He ferments the wine as whole clusters and ages it in tank to preserve the immediacy of the fruit.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Burgaud is one of the great producers of Beaujolais, and fortunately his wines are fairly available at quality merchants in the US and the UK. Don't be afraid to buy the current vintage—2024—which has a reputation as light and crisp. The forward raspberry fruit is a welcome contrast to the 'biggest' vintages (such as 2022), which can be almost overwhelmingly concentrated. The emphasis in 2024 is on elegance and finesse. If you like really concentrated, full-bodied wines, the 2022 or 2020 will satisfy, but don't forsake the lighter years.
HOW TO DRINK IT: I love a cru Beaujolais with dishes from Lyon cuisine such as pigs' feet, tripe, and andouillette, but the wine is much more versatile than this. It pairs superbly well with most hearty meat dishes, but it can also show well next to a fish dish like tuna nicoise or quenelles de brochet, or with vegetables such as celery root, mushrooms, or even artichokes.
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Reference: Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais, France
WHERE TO BUY IT: Burgaud is one of the great producers of Beaujolais, and fortunately his wines are fairly available at quality merchants in the US and the UK. Don't be afraid to buy the current vintage—2024—which has a reputation as light and crisp. The forward raspberry fruit is a welcome contrast to the 'biggest' vintages (such as 2022), which can be almost overwhelmingly concentrated. The emphasis in 2024 is on elegance and finesse. If you like really concentrated, full-bodied wines, the 2022 or 2020 will satisfy, but don't forsake the lighter years.
HOW TO DRINK IT: I love a cru Beaujolais with dishes from Lyon cuisine such as pigs' feet, tripe, and andouillette, but the wine is much more versatile than this. It pairs superbly well with most hearty meat dishes, but it can also show well next to a fish dish like tuna nicoise or quenelles de brochet, or with vegetables such as celery root, mushrooms, or even artichokes.
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Reference: Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais, France
WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Ramonet
Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge |
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WHY BUY IT: Ramonet is among the producers of reference in all the world of wine, truly international legends, really. They are most well-known as producers of some of the most compelling white Burgundy in existence. This is not the entire story, however. The domaine also owns nearly seven hectares of Pinot Noir, including three stellar premier crus, Clos Saint-Jean, Clos de la Boudriotte, and Morgeot. However, nearly two hectares of this total is classified as village level. This makes a seductive wine that is one of the best values in red Burgundy from the Côte d’Or. I recently wrote about the premier crus of Chassagne for Decanter and it is a topic I am very passionate about. My editor, unfortunately, only gave me room for twelve wines, and I could not fit in nearly enough, so I am alerting you to this wine, truly a favourite. I bought more just today, to be sure I wouldn’t run out.
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Ramonet whites can sometimes be in short supply. The reds are more widely available. There is good distribution in important markets globally and the wine appears (sometimes at bargain prices) at auction, and in restaurants (particularly in France). It is a touchstone for me wherever I am.
HOW TO DRINK IT: I often drink this with a simple roast chicken at l’Hôtel de Beaune in Burgundy but I will not limit myself to traditional pairings. The tannins are supple and the wine is elegantly perfumed but not heavy. It could go with a steak in a pinch, or it would do wonders with a quickly seared tuna. I often bring a bottle as well to my favourite Cantonese restaurant in Manhattan, Wu’s Wonton King, where I drink it with everything from the salt and pepper squid to the garlicky Dungeness crab and crispy chicken.
Producer: Domaine Ramonet
Reference: Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Ramonet whites can sometimes be in short supply. The reds are more widely available. There is good distribution in important markets globally and the wine appears (sometimes at bargain prices) at auction, and in restaurants (particularly in France). It is a touchstone for me wherever I am.
HOW TO DRINK IT: I often drink this with a simple roast chicken at l’Hôtel de Beaune in Burgundy but I will not limit myself to traditional pairings. The tannins are supple and the wine is elegantly perfumed but not heavy. It could go with a steak in a pinch, or it would do wonders with a quickly seared tuna. I often bring a bottle as well to my favourite Cantonese restaurant in Manhattan, Wu’s Wonton King, where I drink it with everything from the salt and pepper squid to the garlicky Dungeness crab and crispy chicken.
Producer: Domaine Ramonet
Reference: Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
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WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras |
WHY BUY IT: Chagnoleau and his wife, Caroline Gon, are both very talented winemakers; Frantz had worked with Olivier Merlin at his domaine in La Roche Vineuse; Caroline had been the winemaker for Dominique Lafon at his Mâcon operation Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon in Milly-Lamartine; now they are both focused on their own domaine located in Pierreclos. Their domaine is certified organic since 2013, and they are part of the group Artisans Vignerons de Bourgogne du Sud, which is where I met Frantz. The domaine is 6.8 hectares, but roughly half of that (3.55 ha) is the Clos Saint-Pancras, located in Saint-Albain, on the border of the Viré Clessé appellation. The site faces east in stony soils at 240 metres elevation just below the quarry. The wine is fermented on native yeasts in large foudres and aged 11 months. A hint of smoky reduction lends a sophisticated sheen to the lovely aromas of ripe apple and lemon peel. This is delicious everyday white Burgundy.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Chagnoleau is imported into the US by Skurnik and by Lea & Sandeman and Brunswick in the UK, and thus enjoys solid distribution in both markets. Hong Kong customers can order on special request via Y18 Global Offer. I have bought several times from a retailer who will ship to me for free in Manhattan.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Last night we had this wine with ginger-sesame prawns, gai lan, and roast eggplant – the wine was sufficiently assertive to cut through the rich flavours, but it was also perfect with a more delicately-flavoured Gruyère soufflé that Carol made over the weekend. This is a versatile, everyday wine but still packed with character.
Producer: Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Reference: Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Macon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras
WHERE TO BUY IT: Chagnoleau is imported into the US by Skurnik and by Lea & Sandeman and Brunswick in the UK, and thus enjoys solid distribution in both markets. Hong Kong customers can order on special request via Y18 Global Offer. I have bought several times from a retailer who will ship to me for free in Manhattan.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Last night we had this wine with ginger-sesame prawns, gai lan, and roast eggplant – the wine was sufficiently assertive to cut through the rich flavours, but it was also perfect with a more delicately-flavoured Gruyère soufflé that Carol made over the weekend. This is a versatile, everyday wine but still packed with character.
Producer: Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Reference: Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Macon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras
WHAT TO BUY:Forge Cellars
Wagner Caywood East Dry Riesling WS Global Average: $28.00 | My cost: $21.00
*My source Prestige Wine & Spirits in Buffalo, NY trade online as winemadeeasy* MY SOURCE | PRODUCER SITE |
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WHY BUY IT: New York’s Finger Lakes region produces spectacularly good Riesling. The best wines are on a par with top-level trocken styles from Germany such as Grosses Gewächs. New York is the fourth-largest wine-producing state in the U.S. and the wines deserve much greater notice. As with cool climate grape growing anywhere, the wines have light body, crisp acidity, and moderate alcohol (normally between 12 – 13%), making these a refreshing change. The grapes are grown on steep slopes in shale soils on the eastern shore of Seneca Lake in what some call the ‘banana belt’ because the late afternoon sun helps the grapes ripen to perfection. At Forge the wines are fermented to dryness – there is normally just 2 – 3 g/l residual sugar, giving these wines a balance that makes them seem like an electric nectar of lemon peel, ripe peach, flowers, and flint.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Forge is readily available in New York (even in Manhattan), but further afield it is more difficult to find. The wine with the widest distribution is the blended Classique dry Riesling, which is also a very solid wine, but the single-vineyard expressions are worth seeking out. The wines are made by Louis Barruol of Château Saint-Cosme in Gigondas, and he brings some of them to Europe as well.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This wine, delightful as it is by itself, begs for food. Lobster or oysters would be a natural pair, and the bright acidity would be enough to cut through fattier fish such as trout, salmon, or mackerel, and the regions varieties of pike are similar in flavour to what the French call brochet. In the tasting room at the winery, they have a large selection of exotic conservas (canned fish) that make perfect sense with this food.
Producer: Forge Cellars
Reference: Forge Cellars Wagner Caywood East Dry Riesling, Seneca
WHERE TO BUY IT: Forge is readily available in New York (even in Manhattan), but further afield it is more difficult to find. The wine with the widest distribution is the blended Classique dry Riesling, which is also a very solid wine, but the single-vineyard expressions are worth seeking out. The wines are made by Louis Barruol of Château Saint-Cosme in Gigondas, and he brings some of them to Europe as well.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This wine, delightful as it is by itself, begs for food. Lobster or oysters would be a natural pair, and the bright acidity would be enough to cut through fattier fish such as trout, salmon, or mackerel, and the regions varieties of pike are similar in flavour to what the French call brochet. In the tasting room at the winery, they have a large selection of exotic conservas (canned fish) that make perfect sense with this food.
Producer: Forge Cellars
Reference: Forge Cellars Wagner Caywood East Dry Riesling, Seneca
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WHAT TO BUY:Antonio Vallana e Fignlio
Nebbiolo Campi Raudii |
WHY BUY IT: The Nebbiolo grape makes delicious wine, Vallana is absolutely legendary, and this is an amazing deal. Vallana is from a frightfully trendy region known as Alto Piemonte. The winery is located in the Maggiora hills, not far from the Lago Maggiore on the border with Lombardy. They produce a DOCG Gatttinara and a DOC Boca; the Campi Raudii is their delicious entry-level wine, named for the decisive battle of the Cimbrian War, fought on 30 July 101 BC between the Romans legions and a coalition of German and Teutonic barbarians in what was at the time part of Cisalpine Gaul. The wine is fermented and aged in concrete, so there are no oak aromas to interfere with the purity of the Nebbiolo flavours of earth, pomegranates, and fresh roses. The feel is ripe but slightly rustic—everything one wants in a budget Italian red.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Vallana is imported by Skurnik in the U.S., so they have reasonably good distribution, and you can find it at https://www.wine.com/. However, the winery only makes 500 cases per year of the Campi Raudii and it does not appear that they have an agent in the U.K. or in Asia. You will note that the average price on Wine-Searcher for ‘all vintages’ is higher than indicated; this is because there are some vendors (particularly in Europe) that are offering vintages from the ‘50s and ‘60s but the average for the current vintage is under $20, and a great bargain at that.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This is a wonderful everyday red. I had my most recent bottle with assorted salumi and some taleggio, but it would work with almost everything from pasta to burgers to steak. This may be the world’s best value Nebbiolo.
Producer: Cantina Antonio Vallana
Reference: Antonio Vallana e Figlio Nebbiolo Campi Raudii, Piedmont
WHERE TO BUY IT: Vallana is imported by Skurnik in the U.S., so they have reasonably good distribution, and you can find it at https://www.wine.com/. However, the winery only makes 500 cases per year of the Campi Raudii and it does not appear that they have an agent in the U.K. or in Asia. You will note that the average price on Wine-Searcher for ‘all vintages’ is higher than indicated; this is because there are some vendors (particularly in Europe) that are offering vintages from the ‘50s and ‘60s but the average for the current vintage is under $20, and a great bargain at that.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This is a wonderful everyday red. I had my most recent bottle with assorted salumi and some taleggio, but it would work with almost everything from pasta to burgers to steak. This may be the world’s best value Nebbiolo.
Producer: Cantina Antonio Vallana
Reference: Antonio Vallana e Figlio Nebbiolo Campi Raudii, Piedmont
WHAT TO BUY:Eden Rift Vineyards
Eden Rift Valliant Pinot Noir |
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WHY BUY IT: The Valliant Pinot Noir from Eden Rift is a great value in Central Coast Pinot Noir. The winery specializes in single-vineyard expressions from the Cienega Valley AVA of the Gavilan Hills near Monterey. Winemaker Trevor Chlanda uses a careful selection of fruit gently extracted with a proportion of whole clusters in the fermentation before aging in cask with a restrained use of new oak to deliver a range of wine with a very Burgundian sensitivity. This value-priced Central Coast offering reflects the some of the same depth as the more expensive single vineyard bottlings at an everyday price.
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Valliant Pinot Noir has good distribution in New York thanks to its wholesaler Monsieur Touton. I found it by the case at Saratoga Wine Exchange, but it is available at a selection of restaurants and shops locally, at Binny’s in Chicago, and online at Wine.com. Unfortunately, I did not see any distribution in the UK or overseas.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This elegant, supple Pinot Noir has the lush cherry and floral notes of a classic Pinot Noir but the restrained extraction and use of oak mean that it would be perfect with fish or poultry as well as red wine. Try this with your favourite rendition of tuna tartare for a delightful weeknight dinner.
Producer: Eden Rift
Reference: Eden Rift Vineyards 'Valliant' Pinot Noir, Central Coast, USA
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Valliant Pinot Noir has good distribution in New York thanks to its wholesaler Monsieur Touton. I found it by the case at Saratoga Wine Exchange, but it is available at a selection of restaurants and shops locally, at Binny’s in Chicago, and online at Wine.com. Unfortunately, I did not see any distribution in the UK or overseas.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This elegant, supple Pinot Noir has the lush cherry and floral notes of a classic Pinot Noir but the restrained extraction and use of oak mean that it would be perfect with fish or poultry as well as red wine. Try this with your favourite rendition of tuna tartare for a delightful weeknight dinner.
Producer: Eden Rift
Reference: Eden Rift Vineyards 'Valliant' Pinot Noir, Central Coast, USA
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WHAT TO BUY:Brooklyn Kura
Brooklyn Kura BYx Yamahai Junmai |
WHY BUY IT: Sake is a great change of pace, and it’s not just about sushi. Brooklyn Kura is a sake brewery located in Industry City in Brooklyn owned by Niigata-based Hakkaisan Brewery. I studied there while doing my WSET L2 sake certification, and I loved this sake. It is made with Omachi rice milled at 70%; it has an acidity of 1.9 and a Sake Meter Value of +5 (which represents density). The statistics are sake-geek stuff, but what they mean is that this is dry and rich. The interesting thing is that the Yamahai part refers to a process to develop the lactic acid bacteria necessary for fermentation naturally, which gives the sake a funky, umami character. This is contrary to some people’s appreciation of sake, where purity of fruit and a light, clean body are valued, but it suits a wine-lover like me who values complexity and depth of flavour.
WHERE TO BUY IT: If you live in New York, it is an easy trip to Industry City to visit Brooklyn Kura, which I love to do. This sake, however, was a limited release, and doubtless sold out long ago. However, Brooklyn Kura uses Skurnik for wholesale distribution in New York, and this was a sake that can be found at retail – it appears that several retailers still have some stock. Purchase some of this if possible; if not, explore the other interesting products from Brooklyn Kura.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This complex, umami-rich sake with notes of earth and ripe fruit is delightful on its own or in its traditional setting, with sushi or sashimi. However, don’t be discouraged from thinking outside the box and pairing this with poultry or game, or just with salted almonds the next time you’re watching a Kurosawa movie on Netflix.
Producer: Brooklyn Kura
Reference: Brooklyn Kura 'BYx Yamahai' Junmai Sake, New York, USA
WHERE TO BUY IT: If you live in New York, it is an easy trip to Industry City to visit Brooklyn Kura, which I love to do. This sake, however, was a limited release, and doubtless sold out long ago. However, Brooklyn Kura uses Skurnik for wholesale distribution in New York, and this was a sake that can be found at retail – it appears that several retailers still have some stock. Purchase some of this if possible; if not, explore the other interesting products from Brooklyn Kura.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This complex, umami-rich sake with notes of earth and ripe fruit is delightful on its own or in its traditional setting, with sushi or sashimi. However, don’t be discouraged from thinking outside the box and pairing this with poultry or game, or just with salted almonds the next time you’re watching a Kurosawa movie on Netflix.
Producer: Brooklyn Kura
Reference: Brooklyn Kura 'BYx Yamahai' Junmai Sake, New York, USA
WHAT TO BUY:A.R. Valdespino Inocente
A.R. Valdespino Inocente Fino Sherry |
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WHY BUY IT: This super-solid single-vineyard Fino Sherry has long been a fixture on the door of my refrigerator, particularly in summer months. Crisp, chalky, and quintessentially refreshing, this is a perfect way to wind down at the end of the day. The grapes come from a single Macharnudo Alto with high-quality chalky soils. The wine is still fermented on native yeasts in large old oak casks (most shippers now use stainless), bringing extra character to the blend.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Fortunately this is relatively available. I usually buy it in half bottles so that it stays fresh. It’s important that Fino not lose its deliciously aromatic edge. The global average price is $30; you can find it for $19 at MacArthur in D.C., or for £180 per dozen at Farr, but this necessitates buying a full case. I will often pick up a half bottle from the shop on the corner; even if I pay a premium, it’s worth the convenience – this is world class wine and at best price it’s ridiculously cheap for what it offers.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This flavourful, refreshing sherry is perfect after work with salty almonds or green grapes. It’s also a perfect match with oysters, but it even has enough substance to stand up to Barcelona-style tripe, Callos a la Madrileña.
Producer: Valdespino (Grupo Estévez)
Reference: A.R. Valdespino Inocente Single Vineyard Fino Sherry, Andalucia, Spain
WHERE TO BUY IT: Fortunately this is relatively available. I usually buy it in half bottles so that it stays fresh. It’s important that Fino not lose its deliciously aromatic edge. The global average price is $30; you can find it for $19 at MacArthur in D.C., or for £180 per dozen at Farr, but this necessitates buying a full case. I will often pick up a half bottle from the shop on the corner; even if I pay a premium, it’s worth the convenience – this is world class wine and at best price it’s ridiculously cheap for what it offers.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This flavourful, refreshing sherry is perfect after work with salty almonds or green grapes. It’s also a perfect match with oysters, but it even has enough substance to stand up to Barcelona-style tripe, Callos a la Madrileña.
Producer: Valdespino (Grupo Estévez)
Reference: A.R. Valdespino Inocente Single Vineyard Fino Sherry, Andalucia, Spain
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WHAT TO BUY:Cantina Nervi (Conterno)
Cantina Nervi Il Rosato |
WHY BUY IT: Everyone needs pink wine from time to time, and this is among the best. It is produced by Roberto Conterno, of Barolo Monfortino fame. In 2018 he purchased the classic Gattinara producer Nervi (the oldest winery in the region) and has continued its operation brilliantly. The rosé is made with Nebbiolo grapes and up to 20% Uva Rara, a local grape variety sometimes confused with Vespolina and/or Bonarda, making this an ‘Alto Piemonte’ field blend. The grapes are macerated for six to seven hourse before pressing and fermentation in tank. The result has an alluring red berry fruit aroma, floral notes, and a hint of earth.
WHERE TO BUY IT: There is good retail distribution in the US, and I will often pick some up as part of a mixed case. A good source in the U.S. is K & L wines. It is also fairly available in the UK where a case of six from Falcon Vintners costs £75. Believe me, you will easily go through six bottles of this delicious wine, and this is a great buy at that price
HOW TO DRINK IT: This dry rosé with cherry and floral aromas can be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif or a perfect way to accompany a plate of salumi misti or calamari fritti. It would also be a wonderful match with sushi.
Producer: Cantina Nervi (Conterno)
Reference: Nervi Conterno 'Il Rosato', Piedmont, Italy
WHERE TO BUY IT: There is good retail distribution in the US, and I will often pick some up as part of a mixed case. A good source in the U.S. is K & L wines. It is also fairly available in the UK where a case of six from Falcon Vintners costs £75. Believe me, you will easily go through six bottles of this delicious wine, and this is a great buy at that price
HOW TO DRINK IT: This dry rosé with cherry and floral aromas can be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif or a perfect way to accompany a plate of salumi misti or calamari fritti. It would also be a wonderful match with sushi.
Producer: Cantina Nervi (Conterno)
Reference: Nervi Conterno 'Il Rosato', Piedmont, Italy
WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Jean Chartron
Bourgogne Cote d'Or |
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WHAT TO BUY: Bourgogne Chardonnay. This can be labeled ‘Cuvée Eugenie Dupard’, or simply as Vieilles Vignes or Bourgogne Côte d’Or, but it is all the same wine. The ‘Cuvée Eugenie Dupard’ generates the most prices on wine-searcher.
WHY BUY IT: This is a classic Bourgogne-level wine that drinks like a ‘baby Puligny’, with balanced ripeness and admirably restrained oak character. It is pleasantly rich but not too buttery or oaky, despite being fermented and aged in cask (some 228 litre and some 500 litre). There is always a good amount of fruit from the lieu-dit ‘La Combe’, which is regional (Bourgogne) level, but located within the village limits of Puligny-Montrachet where Chartron is based.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Either cuvée is fine. I found it conveniently near my apartment at Empire State of Wine. In the U.K. it can be found at the right price at Private Cellar. It can be found at other merchants both in the U.S. and the U.K. at higher prices, but at sub-$30 or near that (Private Cellar is quoting £311 per dozen in bond), this is a steal.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This seductively lush but not over-the-top white Burgundy is a lovely aperitif, but there is enough substance to warrant serving it with a first course of vegetables, fish, or chicken.
Producer: Domaine Jean Chartron
Reference: Jean Chartron Bourgogne Cote d'Or, Burgundy, France; Jean Chartron Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvee Eugenie Dupard, Burgundy, France
WHY BUY IT: This is a classic Bourgogne-level wine that drinks like a ‘baby Puligny’, with balanced ripeness and admirably restrained oak character. It is pleasantly rich but not too buttery or oaky, despite being fermented and aged in cask (some 228 litre and some 500 litre). There is always a good amount of fruit from the lieu-dit ‘La Combe’, which is regional (Bourgogne) level, but located within the village limits of Puligny-Montrachet where Chartron is based.
WHERE TO BUY IT: Either cuvée is fine. I found it conveniently near my apartment at Empire State of Wine. In the U.K. it can be found at the right price at Private Cellar. It can be found at other merchants both in the U.S. and the U.K. at higher prices, but at sub-$30 or near that (Private Cellar is quoting £311 per dozen in bond), this is a steal.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This seductively lush but not over-the-top white Burgundy is a lovely aperitif, but there is enough substance to warrant serving it with a first course of vegetables, fish, or chicken.
Producer: Domaine Jean Chartron
Reference: Jean Chartron Bourgogne Cote d'Or, Burgundy, France; Jean Chartron Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvee Eugenie Dupard, Burgundy, France
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WHAT TO BUY:Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté
Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté |
WHY BUY IT: Domaine Goisot is among the rock stars of Northern Burgundy. They’re based in Saint-Bris, and the new generation, Guilhem, apprenticed with Didier Dagueneau. I love all their wines, but my introduction to the estate was the Aligoté, and it is still a touchstone at my house. The vines are planted in Saint-Bris in Kimmeridgian soil in a 4.5 ha vineyard exposed to the south that yield a wine of silky intensity with a tarragon edge and lingering finish.
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Aligoté is among their most widely distributed wines. I found the current 2023 vintage at PJ Wine in Manhattan; the producer is also stocked by Lay & Wheeler in the UK.
HOW TO DRINK IT: The Aligoté is perfect with shellfish – I often have it with garlicky prawns. It is elegant enough to pair with a roast chicken, however. It is crisp and refreshing on release, but it has the structure to age as well and I have greatly enjoyed older Aligoté I have had, mostly in Burgundy.
Producer: Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot
Reference: Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté
WHERE TO BUY IT: The Aligoté is among their most widely distributed wines. I found the current 2023 vintage at PJ Wine in Manhattan; the producer is also stocked by Lay & Wheeler in the UK.
HOW TO DRINK IT: The Aligoté is perfect with shellfish – I often have it with garlicky prawns. It is elegant enough to pair with a roast chicken, however. It is crisp and refreshing on release, but it has the structure to age as well and I have greatly enjoyed older Aligoté I have had, mostly in Burgundy.
Producer: Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot
Reference: Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté
WHAT TO BUY:Domaine de la Pepière
Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Clisson Cru |
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WHY BUY IT: Domaine de la Pepière was founded by Marc Ollivier, and is today run by Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix, who produce some of the most riveting examples of Muscadet. It’s worth the small upcharge to get the single crus, which are crisp, mineral, and refreshing on release but have the substance to age for years. The photo here is me with a jeroboam of the ’09 that I drank in 2025. With time, the wine develops nuances of smoke, candle wax, lemon peel, dried apricot, and sea spray.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found bottles of the ’22 vintage for $24 and mags for $56 at Grapes The Wine Company in New York. Fortunately, they also produce large formats, and jeros are available from Paul Marcus wines on the west coast. The wine is widely available in France but oddly not in the UK or HK.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Either young or with some age on it, this is a great all-purpose aperitif and one of my favourite things to bring to a Chinese restaurant. I think the waxy, mineral edge is a perfect foil for Cantonese food.
Producer: Domaine de la Pepière
Reference: Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Clisson Cru
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found bottles of the ’22 vintage for $24 and mags for $56 at Grapes The Wine Company in New York. Fortunately, they also produce large formats, and jeros are available from Paul Marcus wines on the west coast. The wine is widely available in France but oddly not in the UK or HK.
HOW TO DRINK IT: Either young or with some age on it, this is a great all-purpose aperitif and one of my favourite things to bring to a Chinese restaurant. I think the waxy, mineral edge is a perfect foil for Cantonese food.
Producer: Domaine de la Pepière
Reference: Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Clisson Cru
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WHAT TO BUY:Champagne André Jacquart
André Jacquart Vertus Experience NV |
WHY BUY IT: Marie Doyard and her family farm many superb sites in Le Mesnil and Vertus. She is the granddaughter of André Jacquart and the great-granddaughter of Maurice Doyard. This lively, vibrant wine has pronounced aromas of fresh citrus, oyster shell, and white flowers along with lively acidity and a lingering finish. This is a zingy, refreshing blanc de blancs from a top-quality grower, produced from 60% tank-fermented Vertus premier cru and 40% barrel-fermented Le Mesnil grand cru aged four years and dosed at 3 – 4 g/L. The estate is HVE-certified and sustainably farmed.
WHERE TO BUY IT: My source was the Saratoga Wine Exchange. There is good retail distribution in the UK, US and Europe.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This crisp champagne will be perfect with oysters and other shellfish, steamed fish and sole meunière, and not at all out of place as an aperitif.
Producer: Champagne André Jacquart
Reference: Andre Jacquart Vertus Experience Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France
WHERE TO BUY IT: My source was the Saratoga Wine Exchange. There is good retail distribution in the UK, US and Europe.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This crisp champagne will be perfect with oysters and other shellfish, steamed fish and sole meunière, and not at all out of place as an aperitif.
Producer: Champagne André Jacquart
Reference: Andre Jacquart Vertus Experience Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France
WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Henri et Gilles
Gilles Buisson Bourgogne Rouge |
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NOTE: I have found the 2023, 2022, and 2020 all on offer; any of these warmer vintages would be great. I’m not as keen on the ’21.
WHY BUY IT: Brothers Franck and Fred have taken the reins from their father Gilles and are making some of the top wines in the appellation. Once a part of the Hautes-Côtes, Saint-Romain is today turning out breathtaking wines both red and white. This cooler terroir is perfectly adapted to global warming, and recent such vintages have been superb. The entry-level Bourgogne boasts an approachable, plummy fruit and no lack of structure, drinking far above the regional-level appellation. The estate is certified organic with some biodynamic practices.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I initially found a bottle in the shop at Manhattan Wine Company; now it in stock at wine.com. There is also inventory at swig.co.uk and at Corney & Barrow in Hong Kong, although fit is a bit more expensive in both locations than in the States.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This pitch-perfect red Burgundy is a great everyday Pinot that punches far above its weight as a Bourgogne. It is balanced and approachable enough to drink on its own or with starters, lighter meat dishes or even tuna and salmon.
Producer: Domaine Henri et Gilles
Reference: Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France
WHY BUY IT: Brothers Franck and Fred have taken the reins from their father Gilles and are making some of the top wines in the appellation. Once a part of the Hautes-Côtes, Saint-Romain is today turning out breathtaking wines both red and white. This cooler terroir is perfectly adapted to global warming, and recent such vintages have been superb. The entry-level Bourgogne boasts an approachable, plummy fruit and no lack of structure, drinking far above the regional-level appellation. The estate is certified organic with some biodynamic practices.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I initially found a bottle in the shop at Manhattan Wine Company; now it in stock at wine.com. There is also inventory at swig.co.uk and at Corney & Barrow in Hong Kong, although fit is a bit more expensive in both locations than in the States.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This pitch-perfect red Burgundy is a great everyday Pinot that punches far above its weight as a Bourgogne. It is balanced and approachable enough to drink on its own or with starters, lighter meat dishes or even tuna and salmon.
Producer: Domaine Henri et Gilles
Reference: Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France
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WHAT TO BUY:Domaine Jules Desjourneys
Jules Desjourneys Macon-Verzé |
NOTE: I found the 2019 at retail in Manhattan, and it was superb. I have seen the 2018 and the 2020 is also available. If you find the ’21 that would be very interesting.
WHY BUY IT: Proprietor and winemaker Fabien Duperray is a breath of fresh air. The Lyon native is among the foremost fine wine agents in France, representing DRC, Coche-Dury, Georges Roumier, Armand Rousse, Arnaud Ente, and others. In 2006, he purchased an estate in La Chapelle de Guinchay. Although he is certified organic and follows biodynamic principles, he does not subscribe wholeheartedly to any system. He picks very ripe – in 2023, in mid-September, ‘often two weeks after our neighbours’. Yields are as low as 20 hl/ha. Yet he uses a maximum of 30% whole clusters in the fermentation. He adds no sulfur before bottling and uses only native yeasts. Early vintages were aged in cask, but the use of wood has now been minimised. This Chardonnay is ripe, opulent and voluptuous, yet at six years from the harvest, it is immensely fresh and compellingly lovely.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found it on the shelf at local retail (Empire State of Wine) which surprised (and delighted) me. There seems to be a lot of stock also at iDealwine.com on their sites in a number of countries, as well as at ‘discerning’ cavistes in France.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This lush white Burgundy is dense and concentrated, so pair it with something fairly robust. I drink mine with roast chicken and pan-fried radicchio, but it would also easily stand up to roast pork, duck, or strongly flavoured cheeses. Might be a mistake to pair it with oysters.
Producer: Domaine Jules Desjourneys
Reference: Domaine Jules Desjourneys Macon Verze, Maconnais, France
WHY BUY IT: Proprietor and winemaker Fabien Duperray is a breath of fresh air. The Lyon native is among the foremost fine wine agents in France, representing DRC, Coche-Dury, Georges Roumier, Armand Rousse, Arnaud Ente, and others. In 2006, he purchased an estate in La Chapelle de Guinchay. Although he is certified organic and follows biodynamic principles, he does not subscribe wholeheartedly to any system. He picks very ripe – in 2023, in mid-September, ‘often two weeks after our neighbours’. Yields are as low as 20 hl/ha. Yet he uses a maximum of 30% whole clusters in the fermentation. He adds no sulfur before bottling and uses only native yeasts. Early vintages were aged in cask, but the use of wood has now been minimised. This Chardonnay is ripe, opulent and voluptuous, yet at six years from the harvest, it is immensely fresh and compellingly lovely.
WHERE TO BUY IT: I found it on the shelf at local retail (Empire State of Wine) which surprised (and delighted) me. There seems to be a lot of stock also at iDealwine.com on their sites in a number of countries, as well as at ‘discerning’ cavistes in France.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This lush white Burgundy is dense and concentrated, so pair it with something fairly robust. I drink mine with roast chicken and pan-fried radicchio, but it would also easily stand up to roast pork, duck, or strongly flavoured cheeses. Might be a mistake to pair it with oysters.
Producer: Domaine Jules Desjourneys
Reference: Domaine Jules Desjourneys Macon Verze, Maconnais, France
WHAT TO BUY:Château Grand Village
Red or White |
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WHY BUY IT: Grand Village is the home of the Guinaudeau family, proprietors and stewards of the mythic Château Lafleur in Pomerol. Jacques Guinaudeau, great-great-grandson of the founder assumed responsibility for Lafleur in 1985; five years later he began to develop the estate where he lived, located in the small village of Mouillac, just outside the appellation Fronsac. He slowly implemented everything he had put in place at Lafleur at his home in Grand Village, and has since passed the baton to his son, Baptiste, who continues the work at the highest level. The red wine from Grand Village is absurdly good. The red wine is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The white, in my opinion, is the best produced in Bordeaux outside of Pessac-Léognan; it is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. Both are fermented in tank and aged in cask (30% new); both are also eminently worth buying and drinking.
WHERE TO BUY IT: This regional-level AC Bordeaux Supérieur is worth the effort to track down. In the U.S. it is imported by Martine’s; I found it at Sotheby’s retail. In the U.K. it can be found at Justerini & Brooks and other merchants.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This powerful yet approachable wine offers prominent aromas of plum, mulberry, spice and smoke. The texture is dense but not astringent and the tannins are supple enough to drink when young, making it a perfect choice for pairing with steak, lamb, or
Producer: Château Grand Village
Reference: Chateau Grand Village, Bordeaux, France
WHERE TO BUY IT: This regional-level AC Bordeaux Supérieur is worth the effort to track down. In the U.S. it is imported by Martine’s; I found it at Sotheby’s retail. In the U.K. it can be found at Justerini & Brooks and other merchants.
HOW TO DRINK IT: This powerful yet approachable wine offers prominent aromas of plum, mulberry, spice and smoke. The texture is dense but not astringent and the tannins are supple enough to drink when young, making it a perfect choice for pairing with steak, lamb, or
Producer: Château Grand Village
Reference: Chateau Grand Village, Bordeaux, France
